History of Czech climbing begins practically simultaneously with formation of independent Czechoslovakia in 1918. Before that date climbing - as distinct from Western Europe - had stayed on the verge of interest of the society. Probably the only exception were Ferdinand Stolička, who in years 1864 till 1868 undertook exploratory expeditions into the Himalaya in services of "Geological Survey of India", and Viennese Czech Stepanek, who is the first victim of Aconcagua (6959) in Argentina.

In above mentioned year 1918 KČT (The Club of Czech Tourists) was founded. Later, in 1924, KAČS (The Club of Czechoslovak Alpinists) separated from the KČT. Furthermore, in 1926 was formed IAMES (The Club of Tatra's Climbers), which united both Czech and Slovak climbers. Co-operation between them was in following years typical, incidentally they were citizens of one country. Therefore we can find both Czechs and Slovaks in the great part of described expeditions and I will not segregate them. In 1938 all the clubs became members of international federation UIAA. Among the climbers of 30' should we mention Miroslav Rozehnal, who scaled about 40 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps, was active in the Pyrenees and Norway and in 1935 scaled Pico de Orizaba (5699, Mexiko), Mt. Rainier (4391, Wash.) and Mt. Shasta (4316, Calif.).

The Second World War resulted into the interruption of climbing activities, and many good climbers died, as well. Therefore postwar Czech climbing was developing very slowly. Next reason was Iron Curtain and orientation on the High Tatra and Caucasus only. All the clubs united in 1946 into SČH (The Union of Czechoslovak Climbers), in 1957 after formation of ČSTV (The Czechoslovak Union of Physical Education) its climbing section was formed, which transformated in 1969 into ČHS (The Czech Climbing Union). The first important personality of Czech postwar climbing was Radovan Kuchař.

In 1970 expedition to Peruvian Andes was held. Its goals were southern face of Nevado Huandoy (6395) and Huascarán (6807) in Cordillera Blanca. However, the expedition ended tragically. On 18th May died at that time best Czech climber Ivan Bortel. When he was going over a mountain brook, slipped on a soggy boulder and plunged into the depth of 30 meters. On 31th May whole Peru was hit by terrible earthquake, which released an avalanche from northern summit of Huascarán. The mass of mud and stones destroyed the town of Yungay with 30.000 inhabitants (only 3.000 escaped) and burried the base camp of Czech expedition with all the 14 climbers. Beside the tragedy of German expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1937 is it the greatest disaster ever happened to some expedition.

In the second half of 70' begins a entry of Czech climbers into the Alps. In the right side of Eiger's northern face realized the team Sylva Kysilková (woman), Petr Plachecký, Josef Rybička and Jiří Šmíd first ascent of Czechoslovak pillar (1976). In 1979 climbed Jaroslav Kutil, Tomáš Procházka, Luděk Šlechta and Jiří Švajda within 6 days northern face of Pointe Walker (Grandes Jorasses) and named the route "Rolling Stones". In March 1980 Zuzana Charvátová-Hofmanová (wo man) with Jan Ďoubal, Josef Nežerka and Stanislav Šilhán climbed for the first time in winter Messner's "Route of Friends" in north-western face of Civetta. Czech women climbing belonged to Alpine elite at that time - this confirmed again Charvátová-Hofmanová with Alena Stehlíková in February 1982, when they climbed English route in eastern face of Piz Badile. It was for the first time in history of climbing, when unaided women team climbed so big wall as the first team in winter.

Also rock climbing was on high level at that time. In 1978 was Miroslav Šmíd the first, who climbed solo the route Dihedral Wall on El Capitan. Three years later only 17-year-old Jindřich Šustr together with Slovak Igor Koller succeeded in Dolomites. Within 3 days (2. - 4. August) climbed 850-meter-high south wall of Marmolada d'Ombretta. The route leading through an apparent cave ("Fish") has difficulty level VII+ UIAA and at that time it was considered as the most difficu lt route in Dolomites and probably in the whole Alps.

The main feature of the 80' are attempts on eight-thousand-meter peaks. The most important climber (and popular as well) of this era is Josef Rakoncaj, to whom I will dedicate more words later. However, climbing is not limited only to eightthousanders, even in lower mountains was Czech climbing successful. In 1985 realized Jindřich Hudeček is, as I already mentioned, probably the most famous Czech climber. His first more important achievement was the first winter ascent of English route in northern face of Trollryggen. Together with Jiří Janiš, Petr Plachecký, Václav Širl and Miroslav Šmíd scaled the 1700-meter-high wall within 12 days. His first Himalayan achievement came one year later - with Ladislav Jón realized the first ascent of northern face of Kalanka (6931). In Caucasus in 1978 with Zdislav Drlík scaled for the first time nor th-eastern face of Peak Oshanin (6320), in 1980 with Jaromír Stejskal climbed for the first time in winter Messner's route in northern face of Monte Agner (Dolomites) and in the same year climbed western face of Cerro Yerupaja (6634, Cordillera Huyahuash). His partners were Jaromír Stejskal, Jiří Beneš and Miloš Nosek. In 1981 he was one of seven members of Czech expedition Nanda Devi, who summited this mountain (7816). So his preparation for eightthousanders was finished and Rakoncaj began to collec t one after another. He began with the most difficult of them, with K2 (8611). As a member of Italian expedition reached the summit along the Japanese route. His summit partner was Italian Agostino da Polenza. In 1984 he was one of four climbers, who scaled for the first time the 3000-meter-high southern pillar of Lhotse Shar (8400), and he did it without using oxygen. The top season was the year 1986, when as a member of Italian expedition "Quota 8000" scaled within 13 days in Alpine sty le western face of Broad Peak (8047) and Abruzzi Rib to K2 (8611). So he became the only climber in the world, who summited K2 twice. His further activities are bound with Benoit Chamoux and his group "L'ESPRIT D'ÉQUIPE" (Team Spirit). As its member he climbed in 1988 English pillar in southern face of Annapurna (8091), in 1989 southern face of Manaslu (8163) and in 1990 within 12 days south-western face of Cho Oyu (8201) and for the first time southern face of Shisha Pangma (8046). His temporary last eightthousander is Nanga Parbat (8125), which he ascented in 1992 together with Josef Nežerka along Kishoffer's path in Diamir face.

Josef Rakoncaj summited 8 eight-thousand-meter peaks and is the first Czech on K2, Annapurna and Manaslu. Only Everest resisted in spite of three attempts in 1987, 1988 and 1994. Another outstanding climber became the first Czech on the highest mountain of the world - Leopold Sulovský.

Josef Nežerka is the last person in this overview. Climbing, this beautiful sport, is developing in the Czech Republic furthermore and we will certainly hear much about achievements of Czech climbers in future.

© David Skalka 1997